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Jackson Hole Climbing - Not JUST the Tetons
The obvious discussion here would be about climbing the magnificent mountains of the Teton Range. That is a huge topic that is best described elsewhere. My discussion will rather focus more on rock climbing or sport climbing in the JH area. Three popular areas for Jackson Hole climbing are Blacktail Butte, The Rodeo Wall and The Shield. Blacktail Butte is smack dab in the middle of the valley. Before the airport had full instrumentation for landing planes, the decision about whether or not it was safe to land was made by whether or not the top of Blacktail Butte was visible. There are many routes here, and all are thought by some to be under-rated (i.e., more difficult than the ratings would suggest). The rock is limestone with many small cracks. The Rodeo Wall is located south of Hoback Junction along the Snake River. It is also limestone, with lots of crimpy edges. The eastern exposure makes it a good place to climb in the late afternoon or early evening, when it's in the shade. The routes are rated 5.8 to 5.11d. The Shield is located down Hoback Canyon, in a area near the Granite Creek turn off. This limestone area was rebolted in 2002-2003 and is considered safer since then, but the upper part (the 2nd pitch) is looser rock and not recommended. Due to its southern exposure, the cooler time of the morning is most comfortable for climbs here. The routes are rated 5.6 to 5.11c, with most routes in the 5.10ish range. For those people who simply MUST climb the Grand Teton, mountain guides can escort you up the novice-friendly Owen-Spalding Route, which is really a steep hike and doesn't require much in the way of technical climbing know-how. The first ascent of this route was in 1898, by Franklin Spalding, William Owen and a couple of other guys who didn't seem to merit a mention in the naming of this popular route (rated II 4 - 6). Also on the Grand Teton is the Exum Ridge, both Lower, a steep climb on excellent rock (III 7), and Upper (II 4) which is not too difficult. Guides can lead you up not only the Grand, but also Mt. Owen, Buck Mountain,and even the notoriously challenging, massive Mt. Moran. Mountain guides are available through: Exum Mountain Guides (307) 733-2297 Jackson Hole Mountain Guides (800) 239-7642 or (307) 733-4979 |
Lower Blacktail Butte has a southern exposure, making it accessible in early spring, but it also has the more difficult climbs (5.9+ to 5.12d). Upper Blacktail Butte is a longer hike to get there, but the climbing is slightly less challenging (5.9 to 5.12b).